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Thread: I have no idea how to use a mutilmeter

  1. #1
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    I have no idea how to use a mutilmeter

    I really want to learn how. Can anyone walk me through a coil test? I have the manual for a 200X & S and the test are the same for both except for the 85 200 M&S.

    The very 1st step and I'm lost already!

    Step 1 - Set ohmmeter to RX1 Where is that on my meter and where do I plug the red wire into? The female connections on meter are color coded so the black I know goes at the very bottom. Top one for red reads "10AMAX - unfused - max 10 sec - each 15 min" Middle one for red reads " V with a little head phone looking thing - mA - 750V AC - 1000VDC-2A max" Which one do I plug into?

    I'm sure you can read it too, I just want to be clear as possible with what I'm using and trying to accomplish.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails multi-meter 002.jpg   multi-meter 003.jpg  
    Last edited by Huffa; 02-20-2005 at 03:57 PM.

  2. #2
    Quickonstep is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    well from the manual it is telling you to OHM the coil.. so this is what you do..

    plug the black lead into the black spot on the multi meter, plug the red lead into the one right above that.. with the "omega" symbol or the OHMS symbol... or the little headphone lookin thing as you put it.

    Then set your mutlimeter to about 6 oclock to the 200 on the ohms scale and proceed to test how the book says..

    hope that helps you

    Jesse

  3. #3
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    to "ohm out" anything, you are just checking the connection of the part...all it is doing is seeing if there is a connection between the pos. and neg. leads....just put it on 200k ohms and touch the coil where it tells you and you will know if your coil is toasted or not....make sure your leads are plugged in where quickonstep told you to out them....
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrc85250r
    to "ohm out" anything, you are just checking the connection of the part...all it is doing is seeing if there is a connection between the pos. and neg. leads

    I'm curious, an ohm meter checks your resistance. If you wanted to see if there was a conection wouldnt you set it to volts?
    Nate

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  5. #5
    jmsmilin's Avatar
    jmsmilin is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    ME TOO lol I tried checking out an lt125 with one and my readings were no where at what the book said, so I got a new coil and it fixed it...

    Im clueless with mulitmeters
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  6. #6
    Quickonstep is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrc85250r
    to "ohm out" anything, you are just checking the connection of the part...all it is doing is seeing if there is a connection between the pos. and neg. leads....just put it on 200k ohms and touch the coil where it tells you and you will know if your coil is toasted or not....make sure your leads are plugged in where quickonstep told you to out them....

    that would be continuity .. hehehe

    Jesse

  7. #7
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    OK guys, here are my findings.

    Manual calls for the following & tested with (MM) multimeter at 200 ohms

    200S Pimary coil value = 0.2-0.4........I got 0.6 (coil at 70 degrees)

    200X Pimary coil value = 0.2-0.8 .......I got 0.8 (coil at 70 degrees)

    That seems good to me but the secondary coil resistance value which manual states test at same setting, I got nothing on both till I upped it to 20K on MM. Maybe the manual is wrong on what setting to use?.

    200S secondary = 3-5k.......I got 4.03 WITH THE SP LEAD OFF & with on I got nothing

    200X secondary = 8-15k.......I got 8.60 with SP lead ON

    If I put the 200X lead onto the 200 coil then I got an 8.60 also.

    So my conclusion is the 200X coil & SP lead is good and the 200S coil is good but not the SP lead. Seem correct to you?

    Please feel free to fill me in on any info you can find on learning about electrics and multimeter use. I don't know an ohm from a volt!

    I hate trouble shooting electrics but if enough help it may be a no brainer after a while. I'm sure lots on here don't understand it!

    Thanks for your replies so far.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huffa
    200S secondary = 3-5k.......I got 4.03 WITH THE SP LEAD OFF & with on I got nothing

    200X secondary = 8-15k.......I got 8.60 with SP lead ON

    Is your reading in K ohms as well? because if not you might have problems
    Nate

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    Quote Originally Posted by honda250sx View Post
    Fact: Dr. Death is Bob from Enzyte.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 250sxwheeliepop
    Is your reading in K ohms as well? because if not you might have problems
    I tested the secondary with the meter set at 20K in the ohm section of meter. That sounds like what you are asking, is that correct? This is a digital meter with no actual guage.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails multi-meter 002.jpg   multi-meter 003.jpg  

  10. #10
    Lots_Of_Nothing's Avatar
    Lots_Of_Nothing is offline So bombed at TF I needed both hands to hold my beer Teaching quads a lesson
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    Any decent multimeter will come with a big instruction booklet telling you how to take readings on different things,, I picked up a real nice digital one from the local hardware store for $20 a couple months ago (monthly sale). If yours doesnt have one, and its analog, just save yourself the time, you can get nice digital ones for like $5 off ebay, better readings and alot user friendly.. If you ever need help on them, ask SmokinWrench on here, he has helped me a few times, he is real good with them.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huffa
    I tested the secondary with the meter set at 20K in the ohm section of meter. That sounds like what you are asking, is that correct? This is a digital meter with no actual guage.

    If you were in the 20K range then yeah you reading is alright
    Nate

    The Myth, The MAN, The Legend
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    Quote Originally Posted by honda250sx View Post
    Fact: Dr. Death is Bob from Enzyte.

  12. #12
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    A coil is nothing more than a long wire wrapped round and round alot of turns. You should check a coil on the lowest range of the resistance function. Some meters have a zero adjustment (usually the ones that have a pointer that moves and not the digital meters) on them and you should zero out the leads first so their resistance won't give you bogus readings. I couldn't tell by your picture what type of meter you have digital or analog.
    To do this just put the two leads together and then adjust the zero adjustment for a zero reading on your meter. When you switch ranges on the resistance function you have to do this each time. If it doesn't have a zero adjustment just put the leads together and note the reading and then subtract that reading from you actual measurement.
    Then you have to make sure at least one end of the coil is disconnected because you could get erroneous readings. Because there could be parallel paths that will give you bad readings also. A coil will either have a very low resistance or it will be open completely and it will show an infinity reading on the meter. Hope this helps and didn't confuse ya.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yardbird
    Hope this helps and didn't confuse ya.

    It confuses me and I know what the hell I'm doing
    Nate

    The Myth, The MAN, The Legend
    R.I.P HRR

    Quote Originally Posted by honda250sx View Post
    Fact: Dr. Death is Bob from Enzyte.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yardbird
    A coil is nothing more than a long wire wrapped round and round alot of turns. You should check a coil on the lowest range of the resistance function. Some meters have a zero adjustment (usually the ones that have a pointer that moves and not the digital meters) on them and you should zero out the leads first so their resistance won't give you bogus readings. I couldn't tell by your picture what type of meter you have digital or analog.
    To do this just put the two leads together and then adjust the zero adjustment for a zero reading on your meter. When you switch ranges on the resistance function you have to do this each time. If it doesn't have a zero adjustment just put the leads together and note the reading and then subtract that reading from you actual measurement.
    Then you have to make sure at least one end of the coil is disconnected because you could get erroneous readings. Because there could be parallel paths that will give you bad readings also. A coil will either have a very low resistance or it will be open completely and it will show an infinity reading on the meter. Hope this helps and didn't confuse ya.
    Every little bit helps Yardbird and THANKS! It is a digital and no one told me your info yet. I am testing coils with them completely off bike. Now I know to put the leads together each time I change the function.

    Infinity would be a 0 then or what ever the meter zeros out at on that function?

    Keep the good info a coming!!!!!

    You learning too Wheeliepop?

  15. #15
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    well, whats the point of checking the ohms of one of those, i mean arent they either toast or good? i figured he was looking for if it was burntup or not, thats why i posted earlier...
    1985 Honda ATC250R drag trike with s/t kit and full drag CR hybrid motor and drag chassis...
    1986 Honda ATC250R daily rider fully modded engine, +4 swinger,etc...
    1997 Polaris Storm 800 triple, boyesen reeds, dg individual silencers, 240 studs, 123mph on radar...

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